Camry Idle speed

I have a problem in my camry.when i start the car first thing in the morning poor cold stat idle.Engine RPM surging between 800-1000RPM.Cleaned the IAC valve and throttle body reset ECU by disconnecting the battery negative cable.After done this car was ok for few days and the same problem return.

Check ECT ,IAT sensors all ok.(Also replaced the ECT sensor with OEM part later on and didnt fix the problem.)

swapped the electrical solenoid for IAC valve still the same.

When car is warmed up all seems to be ok.Only problem is no cold fast idle,

I warmed up the car to the operating temperature removed the ECU and placed in the freezer for 15mintes,installed back to the car and idle speed played up straight away.This time worse than ever,so carefully heat up the ECU with a hair dryer and idle speed came good again,This did for three times and confirmed the malfunction was in the ECU.

Replace the ECU and fixed the cold start idle issue.After 2 weeks problem seems to be coming back but not bad as before.

Now on cold start up engine speed sitting around 900-1000RPM.(With the old ECU idle speed was hunting badly between 800-1000.)

Why cold start idle speed not sitting at 1500-1200RPM as it used to in the past 7 years?

I took my car to a Toyota dealer they checked the engine management system with Toyota scan tool and couldn't find any thing wrong.

Reply 1 : Camry Idle speed

You said you cleaned the IACV. Did you pull it completely off and thoroughly clean the Valve.. making sure it turned all the way to the left, all the way to the right with no problems at all? Did you clean the EGR too? It could be stuck partially with carbon on the Valve Side. Remove it and push a screw driver inside the top section that bolts up with the two 12mm bolts and see if it moves freely. I suspect some carbon will drop out of it. There really isn't a whole lot that the Toyota Break out Box and scan tool can detect on OBD1 .. A lot of times the ECU wont even detect a problem if its there.

Reply 2 : Camry Idle speed

Hi Mate.

Yes i did remove the IAC out of the throttle body and cleaned it very well but no luck.

Cheers.

Bob.

How to remove the the cover for the subwoofer

Unlike other pieces that snap off or with the use of a flathead screwdriver, I can't seem to take that subwoofer cover off for some reason. Any advice?



Thanks!

Reply 1 : How to remove the the cover for the subwoofer

the subwoofer cover is part of the whole plastic cover for the tailgate. The whole thing must be removed to get access to the sub. You have to start with the plastic interior panel near the top of the tailgate windows, then the side panels, then finally the whole plastic cover. There is one bolt (where the handle is when pulling down the tailgate) the rest are plastic tabs

Reply 2 : How to remove the the cover for the subwoofer

Quote:

Originally Posted by sweeneyp the subwoofer cover is part of the whole plastic cover for the tailgate. The whole thing must be removed to get access to the sub. You have to start with the plastic interior panel near the top of the tailgate windows, then the side panels, then finally the whole plastic cover. There is one bolt (where the handle is when pulling down the tailgate) the rest are plastic tabs

Thanks! Good thing I didn't try to pry it open even more... it would have been a sad day and someone would probably murder me...

91 Corolla - Transmission problems

Hello all.



I need to replace the automatic transmission in my 91 Corolla. I need to know if this one will work;



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Trans...Q5fAccessories



It says that it will fit in a 2000-2002 Corolla / Prizm, but I'm pretty sure it's the same model (A131L) transmission.

It's easy to find a 3 speed tranny out of a newer Corolla than a 91.



According to this website it is the same...

http://www.roadkillcustoms.com/hot-r...smission=A131L



Does anyone know for sure? I need to get back on the road.

Reply 1 : 91 Corolla - Transmission problems

Quote:

Originally Posted by heavy47 Hello all. I need to replace the automatic transmission in my 91 Corolla. I need to know if this one will work; http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Transmission-Corolla-Prizm-3-Speed-2000-01-02-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZModelQ3aCorollaQQhashZitem 2eb313882cQQitemZ200572897324QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fT ruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories It says that it will fit in a 2000-2002 Corolla / Prizm, but I'm pretty sure it's the same model (A131L) transmission. It's easy to find a 3 speed tranny out of a newer Corolla than a 91. According to this website it is the same... http://www.roadkillcustoms.com/hot-r...smission=A131L Does anyone know for sure? I need to get back on the road.

It will not work..

Why your car is OBDI and that trans is from obdii

Your best bet is have your trans rebuilt...

Ask College that has Automotive program...

They might rebuilt cheap....

hot bad idle

i have a 93 runner with 3.0 in it it drives perfact in the mornings at first start idles about 1100 rpm after making long trips (30-45min) or just driving alot around town when its still hot and i go to start it its jumpy? with idle from 300 to 500 and acts like its missing..but when i hold accelorator to about 2000 for a few seconds it runs fine any suggestions??

Reply 1 : hot bad idle

4runneroffroad,



A few things I can think of off the top of my head are,



1) ECT (engine coolant temp sensor) which sends water temp signals to the ECU.

2) Carbon in the throttle body, which causes sticking and rough running.

3) Throttle Position sensor out of adjustment. Which can be checked if you take throttle body off to clean it.

4) EGR valve sticking open

Reply 2 : hot bad idle

Wat do you.think I should start with first? I haven't delt much with throttle position sensor how would I go about checking it

Reply 3 : hot bad idle

t4runneroffroad,



Ok to check the TPS you will need a hand vacuum pump and a Volt/Ohm meter to set the TPS idle adjustment. The best way to do this is to remove the Throttle body first. You should have a gasket available if you damage the one that's on there. The idle adjustment is a feeler gauge setting and I think the setting is .020 open and .032 infinity don't quote me though, look it up.

When was the last time you changed the spark plugs?

You might have a faulty cold start system that allows just a little too much fuel on a hot start to allow it to run rough until you give it enough throttle to clear the system.

Just another thought.

Because it is hot I tend to think it is a sensor that is not sending the right signal when it is hot and causes too much gas at start and runs rough until it is cleared to a normal mixture. I would lean towards the ECT.

Reply 4 : hot bad idle

Awesome I can do that. I haven't changed then in about 6 months but I only average about 10 miles a day. Right now I have Bosch platinum plugs is there anything better that I can put in I plan on changing them soon. With the ECT I have an idea of were its at but there's 4 plugs between firewall and motor I can't pinpoint witch one it is and how hard its going to be to get it out since they are side by side.

Reply 5 : hot bad idle

4runneroffroad,



Get rid of those Bosch plugs! Toyota's don't run very well with those. Get either Denso or NGK. Your rig will love you for that. If you are looking at the back of your engine the ECT will be on the right hand side. It will have a Brown wire with a black stripe and a Green wire with a light Green stripe. Before you look into this ECT I would put new plugs in it and run it to see how it behaves first.

Reply 6 : hot bad idle

Well I went out and got the ECT when I took the old one off it was cracked all the way around I replaced it so hopefully ill figure out today if the problem goes away.I bought the jfk plugs I will also replace this week. Thanks jetwhine. The next thing I would Like to do is run a cold air intake any suggestions besides k&n I'm trying to be cheaper than the kit they have for $255 or I buy the MAF sensor adaptor through them and make my own?

Reply 7 : hot bad idle

4runneroffroad,



I always try to stay as stock as possible. I use the K&N stock filters they work fine. I do like the looks of the K&N filter system.

Good find on the ECT. That might make a difference.

Get rid of those plugs though!

Reply 8 : hot bad idle

I changed the plugs to ngk platinum changed cap rotor not wires there fairly new went for a drive today bout 10 miles and it did it again! Wat do u think about the dashpot?

Reply 9 : hot bad idle

I have encountered the same problem as you have expressed! Truck would run just fine! Shut it off, go to restart it, and it would run rough until I stepped on the throttle! My problem was a leaky fuel injector! Next time it is running rough, while it is running rough, pull the plug wires one at a time and see if one cylinder doesn't drop the RPM's further. If the RPM's doesn't drop on the one cylinder, pull the spark plug and see if it is fuel fouled!

Reply 10 : hot bad idle

t4runneroffroad,



I'm now thinking fuel issues. As stated by the previous post. Could be an injector or the cold start system putting too much gas on a hot start. You also might want to check that system when you get the problem too see if the cold start injector is squirting when it is not supposed too. And as previously stated check each plug while running to see which cylinder is causing the problem.

Reply 11 : hot bad idle

Well yesterday I fixed the cap on the dashpot it had a crack in it I just used a plastic epoxy for temporary fix. I tried to get it to act up today but the most it did is idle about 500 but it wasent jumpy about it. I also took the back line off of the egr valve and had no vac at all. Does that vac line lead to throttle body. I plan on cleaning the throttle body over the weekend and cleaning maybe replacing egr valve

Reply 12 : hot bad idle

The crack in the dashpot would cause a vacuum leak, and not be associated with the symptoms you have explained above. Your EGR valve shouldn't have vacuum to it at idle. You can check to see if it has vacuum with engine above idle. You can check to see if the EGR is functioning by applying vacuum to it,engine at idle, and seeing if the engine rpm's drop/runs rough! this will tell you that the egr valve is working;I.E. not stuck open or closed! The EGR does get its source vacuum from the throttle body, but goes through the EGR vacuum modulator, to the vacuum switching valve, to the EGR. I wouldn't take the approach of throwing parts at the vehicle in order to get it running right. Try to get the vehicle to duplicate the problem, and do a cylinder balance test on it first, as i mentioned above.

4AFE No spark.... frrickk!!!!!!

My moms car, 90 corolla. She was driving into town and the car just died. It turns over just fine but its got no spark. The rotor turns, plug wires are in specs and I didn't want to just start throwing new parts into it so I towed it to a mechanic... he said "secondary coil is bad and its cheaper to replace the whole distributor assembly". I took it home and replaced the coil $35.00... nothin'.... replaced the distributor assembly with a reman $195.00... nothin'... replaced main relay and still nothin'. I keep thinking I'm missing the obvious but after much research I haven't found much. Please help me before I set the stupid thing on fire.

Any suggestions???

Thanks a lot.

Paul

Reply 1 : 4AFE No spark.... frrickk!!!!!!

Just figured I'd make sure since you didn't mention it. You checked the EFI fuse correct? What state is the battery in? I'm not that familiar with OBD 1, but if it is anything like some OBD 2 systems its possible the computer blew. hopefully someone can chime in with a similar experience. Did you do a code check? it is possible to do it manually without the use of a computer.

Reply 2 : 4AFE No spark.... frrickk!!!!!!

You say you have no ignition. Have you checked visually for spark by removing a plug and cranking with wire attached and body of plug resting on engine block? What is condition of distributor cap/rotor and wires? Check fuses I think one is for ignition. Probably in big black fuse box underhood. You say rotor turns but this sounds very characteristic of broken or jumped timing belt. HAve you removed timing belt cover to inspect? Have you tried removing air intake tube and giving it a shot of starting fluid in throttle body to see if it starts?If it starts and stalls then redirect you troubleshooting toward fuel system.

Reply 3 : 4AFE No spark.... frrickk!!!!!!

I did pull the plug wires and test for a spark... so did the mechanic... its unanimously a no spark. I checked every fuse I could find in 4 different "fuse banks"... one on the pos bat cable... both of the banks on the driver side fender and one under the dash by the drivers left foot. I am thinking its a computer or fuse... some sort of electrical failure because the car went from running great to stone cold dead in 1 second and now it doesn't even think about catching when its cranking over. The battery is good... smells like fuel.

I have not gotten any codes... How do I go about doing that with a digital multimeter and test light?

Also, in my manual it says to "check the IGT signal from the ECU" but doesn't explain how to perform the test or what the signal should be. Can anybody shed some light on that?

Thanks a lot,

Paul

Reply 4 : 4AFE No spark.... frrickk!!!!!!

There are three fusible links in box attached to positive battery cable check to see if any are blow. Have you tried another cap/rotor wires? Here is link on checking codes.



http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/

Reply 5 : 4AFE No spark.... frrickk!!!!!!

Thank you that is helpful but the check engine light is not on. Is there a way to test the ECU or anything like that?

Reply 6 : 4AFE No spark.... frrickk!!!!!!

Codes can be stored without triggering the light . Doesn't hurt to check it out if it will help to pinpoint a possible solution.

Reply 7 : 4AFE No spark.... frrickk!!!!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by GMML My moms car, 90 corolla. She was driving into town and the car just died. It turns over just fine but its got no spark. The rotor turns, plug wires are in specs and I didn't want to just start throwing new parts into it so I towed it to a mechanic... he said "secondary coil is bad and its cheaper to replace the whole distributor assembly". I took it home and replaced the coil $35.00... nothin'.... replaced the distributor assembly with a reman $195.00... nothin'... replaced main relay and still nothin'. I keep thinking I'm missing the obvious but after much research I haven't found much. Please help me before I set the stupid thing on fire. Any suggestions??? Thanks a lot. Paul

Reply 8 : 4AFE No spark.... frrickk!!!!!!

check for oil in spark plug tubes the seals go bad and tubes fill up with oil and foul out plugs,also had oxegen sencer short out due to it just fell off because of rust and shorted out on frame and would blow efi censor every time I changed the fuse and didnt realize it and was just as frustrated as you seem to be

Reply 9 : 4AFE No spark.... frrickk!!!!!!

Well Thanks to all who replied... I figured it out and I always like reading forums with the conclusion so someone can benefit from lessons learned. After replacing the coil and distributor... it was.... $2.69 ROTOR!!! There is a little hair crack in it where the spark burnt the plastic.... Lesson learned is replace wearable parts like that before assuming bigger problems. Thanks for the help.

P

Reply 10 : 4AFE No spark.... frrickk!!!!!!

Glad you got it fixed and that you shared what fixed it with all in forum.

Reply 11 : 4AFE No spark.... frrickk!!!!!!

Yeah upon further examination, the spark was jumping through the plastic in the rotor and grounding on the distributor drive shaft. Guess that was less resistance than going through the plug wires.

Replace Condender

Ok so in my previous post I had no A/C. To make a long story short I found the problem....my condensor has a hole in it and I ordered a new one. The compressor clutch came on after a few seconds of charging the system with a kit from Autozone, but then I heard and saw the "Hisssssssss" from a hole made by a nice sized rock.



Has anyone ever replaced this by themselves? Tips....advice....lessons learned? Swapping in the new one is no big deal, but the need to evacuate/vaccum the system out and all that jazz....kinda sucks. Supposed to have it done by a pro so they can discard the old refrigerant legally, etc.



But here's the thing...I have a hole in mine. All the refrigerant leaked out. Compressor clutch doesn't even engage. So my question is....is it REALLY necessary to vacuum the system first?? Can't I just sawp in the condenser, pop in some new O-rings for good measure, and charge it with another kit from Autozone?

Reply 1 : Replace Condender

Quote:

Originally Posted by dblhelx Has anyone ever replaced this by themselves? Tips....advice....lessons learned? Swapping in the new one is no big deal, but the need to evacuate/vaccum the system out and all that jazz....kinda sucks. Supposed to have it done by a pro so they can discard the old refrigerant legally, etc. But here's the thing...I have a hole in mine. All the refrigerant leaked out. Compressor clutch doesn't even engage. So my question is....is it REALLY necessary to vacuum the system first?? Can't I just sawp in the condenser, pop in some new O-rings for good measure, and charge it with another kit from Autozone?

despite the hole in your compressor, you should still make sure there's no pressure in the system. you are supposed to have it done by someone who's able to dispose of it properly. maybe you could take it to a local shop and only have them discharge the system and then you could still do the disassembly/reinstallation yourself. my service manual is saying that the receiver-drier element should be replaced as well if the condenser is being replaced due to leakage. (idk if a hole in the housing would count as a normal leak though, ya know?)

Reply 2 : Replace Condender

Thanks for the response bro. Do you know if I can swap the current Receiver/drier into the new condenser??

Reply 3 : Replace Condender

well, the receiver-drier should be replaced if you're putting in a new compressor. the receiver-drier is located on the driver's side (right side if standing in front of the car looking at it) right there on the condenser (that's the radiator-looking thing that's mounted in front of the actual radiator). and you don't actually replace the receiver-drier per se, you actually just unscrew the plug at the bottom of it and take out the filter-drier element and replace that. after doing that make sure to lubricate the o-ring on the plug that goes on the bottom of the receiverdrier with R-134a refrigerant compatible (PAG oil) refrigerant oil. you'll need to add some PAG oil to the system since you're putting in a new compressor, if it comes with instructions it will probably say how much you'll need.

Reply 4 : Replace Condender

Actually I'm just puting in a new condenser. Compressor works fine. So I take it I won't need PAG oil since the compressor is good.



Just unbolt the bottom and slip out the filter and put it in the new condenser? The compressor is untouched so the oil level in that will be ok.



I figured, or hoped....LOL...... that I can just swap in new condenser and recharge with a kit from autozone. What's the worst that can happen if I don't evacuate/ vacuum the system first? It should be pretty much empty with that huge hole in the condensor.

Reply 5 : Replace Condender

Quote:

Originally Posted by dblhelx Actually I'm just puting in a new condenser. Compressor works fine. So I take it I won't need PAG oil since the compressor is good. Just unbolt the bottom and slip out the filter and put it in the new condenser? The compressor is untouched so the oil level in that will be ok. I figured, or hoped....LOL...... that I can just swap in new condenser and recharge with a kit from autozone. What's the worst that can happen if I don't evacuate/ vacuum the system first? It should be pretty much empty with that huge hole in the condensor.

wait, what? you say you're replacing the condenser but then list steps to replace the receiver-drier filter... or am I just misinterpreting you?

Reply 6 : Replace Condender

LOL...sorry if I'm confusing . lol



Yeah, I need to replace the condensor,,,,the radiator looking thing in front of the actual radiator. I just assumed the receiver/drier thing is attached to the condensor? I just looked at it briefly in the engine bay and on the Haynes manual.....looked like it was attached to the condensor? After I saw the hole in the condensor I pretty much stopped there because I knew there was nothing I could do until the new part came so I really didn't take a good look.

Reply 7 : Replace Condender

well the housing for the receiver-drier may be attached to the condenser but I don't know if it will come with a fresh new filter element. but yea, If I were you I'd get the whole system flushed just to be safe and then install the new condenser and dryer filter and refill the system. there are refrigerants that you can buy that already come with the oil pre-mixed in the can, if you wanted to do it yourself I'd use that stuff otherwise just have the place that flushed the system replenish it with new refrigerant.

Reply 8 : Replace Condender

Any particular reason I would NEED a new drier/receiver? I mean the system was working great before I got the hole in the condenser fins so I assume the drier/receiver is in fine working condition so that's why I figured I'd just swap it into the new condenser.



I figured, maybe retardedly, lol, that since the old condenser has a huge hole in it, it's probably empty....I can test it by depressing the valve where you recharge on the low side or the high side.....I can just do the straight swap of parts (put new O-rings in there with a bit of oil on them, recharge it with a kit from Autozone and see if it blows cold air. Worse comes to worse I have to have it re-done at a shop.



No? Yeah? lol

Reply 9 : Replace Condender

you haven't tried to run the AC since the hole appeared, have you?

Reply 10 : Replace Condender

Quote:

Originally Posted by TrdSpeed140 you haven't tried to run the AC since the hole appeared, have you?

Well, sort of. I wasn't aware of the hole while I was recharging the AC with a kit from autozone. I figured the compressor wasn't coming on, maybe, because the refrigerant was too low. Relay and fuse were both ok. So maube 3 seconds after I squirted some refreigerant into the low side valve the compressor kicked on and she started to blow cold air. I emptied maybe 1/4 a bottle into it when I started to hear a hissssssssss. Then I look down and see bubbles flowing out of a hole in the condensor (lower driver-side corner).



Well of course I stop recharging and the hissing continued for maybe 30-60 minutes and then eventually fizzled out to nothing now.....of course the compressor won't come on now since the refrigerant is too low.



Any particular reason you wanna know?



And THANK YOU IMMENSELY for the assistance!!!

Reply 11 : Replace Condender

I hope I don't get cancer or have my wiener fall off for breathing in this stuff. lol

Reply 12 : Replace Condender

lol, ya, try not to breath any of it, it's bad mmm kay, haha. I'd get the system flushed since there is the possibility that debris could be scattered thru the system, it's just a precaution so you wont have to replace even more parts cuz debris damaged them cuz the system wasn't flushed.

Reply 13 : Replace Condender

UPDATE:



Well I got the new condensor in the mail. The manual says you gotta drain and remove the radiator. That's BS. I just unbolted it, pushed it back maybe 1 - 1.5 inches and slid the condensor up and out (after unbolting the two A/C lines.



Put two new O-rings on the A/C lines that bolt into the condensor and slid the new condensor in place, bolted it up, secured the A/C lines.



With a recharge kit from Autozone I turned the empty A/C on high, plugged in the recharge kit and within seconds the compressor kicked and started to suck in refreigerant.



Filled it so it was between 30-40....right around 38 actually and BADDA BING! Freezing cold A/C filling the car!



SWEEEET.

Reply 14 : Replace Condender

nice!

1993 Camry XLE - intermittent starting problems

My son has a 1993 Camry XLE with about 250k miles on it. It had been starting fine (with the exception of a couple of mornings last month when it was about -30!). Recently, he's been experiencing intermittent problems when starting it. Starts fine cold (first thing in the morning, or after sitting all day while he's at work) but sometimes won't start after he's driven it, and then it sits for about 15 - 20 minutes. For example, it started fine for him this morning both before and after work. After driving home from work (about 40 minutes city driving), he stopped to pick his wife up (car sat for maybe 5 minutes or so) and the car started no issues. Drove to the store ( < 10 minute drive), car sat for about 20 minutes, and wouldn't start. After sitting for about an hour or two, the car usually starts right up.



I'm not a DIY mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, and he's less so, but I'm hoping that we can get some ideas as to what the problem might be, and what he might expect for repair costs. The car is in pretty good shape all things considered, but at the same time, I don't like to see him start putting money into an 18 year old car again and again and again...



Any suggestions as to what the problem might be? Thanks!

Reply 1 : 1993 Camry XLE - intermittent starting problems

sounds like the starter has gone bad...

I would also check the cables... just to make sure..